Tuesday, April 10, 2007

Hindus - And then there were none !!

I met this gentleman who was a peddler of Hinduism. He preferred ‘student of religion and spirituality’. He frequented a particular Ashram and a saint in that abode; and was flush with the benefits of spiritual education and Hinduism. I was totally uninvolved in the discussion until he threw a question at me. (Maybe just to prove his intellect … since I have a history of looking lost)

‘Vivek, what do you think of religious education in India.?’

Me? ‘I think it’s a total waste of public time. People reach a certain age in life when they have nothing worthwhile to do, they immediately seek a holy person and a holy abode, make frequent trips, come back home, hang a huge picture of religious person X and have an amazingly smug look on their face, of a person who has all the answers.’

GP was aghast: “What do you mean by people at a certain age… look at all the young people who frequent the ashrams?”

Me ‘Maybe some people reach that ‘having nothing worthwhile to do in life stage’ a little too early.’

GP still trying to get a foothold of the discussion throws it back at me. ‘Why do you think it is a waste?’

Okay, before I start tell me something about yourself.’

“Well … I’m 68 years old, have 3 children, am retired, live in Bhubaneshwar.”

‘Tell me GP’ji what is your aim in life.’

“My aim? Well I have many aims ... my aim is to be a good father, a good grandfather, a good citizen, many aims. Also to be a good student of spirituality. ‘Guru is God’, my son.”

‘Why is being a good father your aim? Have you not been a good father, until now?’

“Oh no. I’ve always been a good father, but you see that’s a process.”

‘Let’s say for sake of argument .. you have three children .. and they’re standing at the railway track and a train runs over them, and they’re all dead. What’s your reaction going to be?’

“What kind of a question is this? How can you even ask something like this? Don’t you know what the reaction of any father would be?”

‘No … I have no kids, so I have no idea.’

“So that you know, any father would be devastated. The way the world works it is the old that die first and then the young. It is indeed an extremely unfortunate father who would have to see his children dead in front of him. This is a foolish discussion. You have no idea of what you’re talking about.”

Me : ‘Well, sorry for being so rude … but it’s nice to get a strong reaction.

Let me tell you a story now, a tale from Indian mythology.

Dronacharya was the teacher of the Pandavas and Kauravas. One day, Dronacharya called all the young Kauravas and Pandavas and led them to an open field. In the middle of that field was a tree. On the tree, was a parrot sitting.

The exercise was to shoot an arrow into the eye of the bird.

He called the first student and asked him “What do you see?”

The student replied,’ I see the hills, the river, the field, the tree and the bird.’

He shoots the arrow and it misses.

Dronacharya calls the second student and asks him, “What do you see?”

The second student has a similar answer and a similar result.

This happens with all the students and finally there’s only one of them left. Arjuna is the last person to make an attempt. The bird is still in the tree, oblivious of everything around. Dronacharya asks Arjuna the same question.

His answer: ‘I see only the eye of the bird.’

Dronacharya is pleased with the answer and Arjuna goes forth and gets the bird in the eye.

The moral of this story is that if you’re aiming for the eye of the bird that’s all you should see.

When I ask you a 68 year old man, a retired man, on what his aim is, he has many.

To be a good parent? Is that a worthwhile aim at 68? Your children are 33, 28 and 26 years of age respectively. If you die today, will they be marooned, will they have no bearings on how to live their lives or earn a livelihood? No, they’re perfectly capable of that. So does there exist the role of a father here?

Every relationship has a shelf life. The shelf life of a fetus inside a womb is around 9 months. The mother cannot say let me keep this inside for a few more months .. her body cannot carry such a grown up baby, the baby will not survive for a longer time than the stipulated 40 odd weeks on her internal body fluids. Similarly you cannot go and sit in office when you are 68. You are done, you are retired. This gives a chance for younger people to work in the organization and that’s how life should be. Similarly as a parent your aim is to make your children self reliant, and capable of standing on their own feet. You have done this job. So you’ve fulfilled your role as a good parent. No point hanging on to it. A dead body should be cremated, else it spreads germs and bacteria. The parent child relationship has run its course. Time for you to move ahead. If you are a 68 old person and have fulfilled all your responsibilities in life, you have only one responsibility left and that it towards yourself. Your aim in life at this stage is to attain enlightenment and become one with God. That is the aim of every Hindu.

There are 4 stages in the life of a Hindu, the 3rd is Vanaprasathanam. When the householder renounces what he has and embraces a life of spirituality. It’s difficult in the current situation .. but your mind needs to understand and be conditioned to the fact that that should be your aim.

So you mentioned the wrong answer when I asked you the question. Your aim in life is to be one with God. That is the eye of the bird.

Why should you be devastated when your children die?

If you read the Bhagvat Gita, it clearly says that you are not the body, you are neither father, brother nor son. You are a soul, seeking salvation. When you are not the body and not a father, why should you grieve over the death of another non-body that you yourself know cannot perish?

I’m sure you must have read the Gita numerous times and know exactly what I’m talking about. But why is it that it fails to register when you are in a situation?

Let me enlighten you on this as well.

I had a friend. He was a very big devotee of the Swimming Bhagwan. Every morning he woke up, took a bath, lit a lamp and performed puja of the Swimming Bhagwan idol, in his home. He read swimming mantras for half an hour every morning. His house was filled with hundreds of religious books on swimming. Every evening he used to visit the Ashram of the Swimming Swamiji and listen to the Swimming pravachan. He came back home in the evening, read one of the many holy books on swimming , mediated and went to sleep. He did this for 25 years.

And one day he decided to jump into the swimming pool. He drowned.

People were astonished. How could a person who had such great devotion in swimming, a person who read all the books in swimming, who had an excellent swimming swamiji as his guru, drown?

After a lot of research they realized that he had drowned because he had never practiced swimming. So to learn swimming, you need to practice swimming.

The person who wins an Olympic goal in swimming is not the person who has read the most books in swimming or prayed the most to the Swimming Bhagvan. He’s the one who has practiced the most. (assuming he has the skills)

Similarly for Hinduism. Anyone who has achieved literacy and has a good memory can quote from the religious texts. But it is only a learned person who can apply these texts. A good doctor practices medicine, does not get into hypothetical arguments on medical cures.

So by reading all the Upanishads, the holy scriptures, a person may know enough of religion to impress his ignorant family and friends. But has he practiced enough of it to be one with god? No.

It’s one thing to know the alphabet and another to use it to construct a sentence, so that you can convey a thought and use its energy. Right now you have all the alphabets but are not using them for what they are meant to be used for.

Why do people fail to learn in spite of having such learned Gurus?

Say I’m a teacher in English literature. I give a two hour lecture on Shakespeare and then ask the students “What are your thoughts on Shakespeare?”. They all come right to the podium and fall at my feet and look very happy. But no answer.

I’m surprised and ask them again. My question was, “What are your thoughts on Shakespeare?”.

They all come again to the podium and place an offering in cash and kind at my feet.

At this point I’m a little livid, and again ask them the same question.

They all come to the podium, hug me and seek my divine blessings.

The question still remains unanswered.

The problem is that people are not interested in an education here. Let’s start with basic concepts. ‘What’s a teacher?’ A teacher is a person who imparts an education. A student is a person who imbibes an education. In the absence of any transmission of knowledge, there can’t be any student teacher relationship. This is exactly the problem with religious/spiritual education in this country. There are great Gurus available, but people insult them by looking towards them as breathing gods. It’s like a talking temple; Tirupathi, where the God speaks back to you.

Enlightenment is neither contagious nor hereditary, it needs to be imbibed.

If I am a student of physics and am asked questions on physics and have no answers, it reflects badly on me and my teacher. Similarly if you claim to be a student of Hinduism or spirituality, you should know and practice enough or you’re disrespecting, discrediting your teacher who is putting in such a huge effort to show you the real path.

This is the main reason why religious education fails in India. Because people do not make an attempt to learn. They are more entrenched in the religious ‘process’.

How did Valmiki become a saint?

The story is that Valmiki was a thief and when the saints asked him whether his family would partake in sharing the sins of his crime, he was confident that they would. When he realized that that wasn’t the case and his family had washed their hands off his sins, he took to the holy path.

Currently in India, people are perfectly okay with their parents being thieves, that’s why we are such a corrupt country. It’s socially acceptable being a thief now. What’s even worse is that being a fool is even more socially acceptable. It’s perfectly possible for a thief to become a saint, he’s at least using his intellect for some purpose. But a fool has little hope. This is the biggest reason why people do not learn.

Valimiki’s children pointed him to the right path, today’s children do not. They accept their parents for all their shortfalls.

God is everywhere.

What does that mean?

There’s god in this wall, in this sofa in this wooden stool, in the door. But you do not see god, say in the door. So a poor wood carver cuts a piece from your door and carves a status of Lord Krishna. And then you see the God!! But that God you see is actually just a piece of wood, a piece of a tree or a stone, a piece of rock. But you do not worship every rock or tree that you see. Why is that so? It is your ignorance that stops you from seeing God in every tree and stone .. and only in the ones shaped to look like the God you want to see.

If God is everywhere, why is it that you fail to see the God in me?

Worse .. why is it that you fail to see the God in you?

So finally who is a Hindu? Why do people think they are Hindus?

Because their Daddy is a Hindu, because they have Hindu written on their birth certificate?

Who exactly is a Hindu?

Does any women who wears a mangalsutra become a Hindu?

Or for that matter the crimson powder? Yes? In that case if a Westerner suddenly starts wearing a mangalsutra or the crimson powder does she become a Hindu? Similarly do you stop being a Hindu if you just get rid of those physical objects? Or if you burn/lose your Caste certificate?

Are you a Hindu because you have statues of Krishna and Rama at home? And light a lamp and incense sticks? Does it mean that only a person who has a picture of God (say costing 5 Rs) and can afford to light an incense stick(5ps), and an oil lamp and wick (5ps), qualifies? So only a person who has a minimum capital of 5Rs initial and an additional 10 paise per day can become a Hindu or qualifies to be a Hindu? No. Religion does not have a cost attached to it. A person with zero material means, should have access to it.

So the question remains, ‘Who is a Hindu?’.

A Hindu is a person who has the qualities of a Hindu?

If you read the Gita it clearly says God is within you. It does not say that you should have a Kodak color picture of Sree Krishna and pay obeisance to it. Neither does it say that you should visit Tirupathi, Gurvayur, Kashi else you will not attain enlightenment.

But you do all this that is not mentioned and ignore everything that is actually said. Essentially you throw the essence of religion out of the window and embrace all the physical trappings that come with a religion.

A Hindu is someone who believes that the Guest is god.

Who know that Guru is God.

Who does his karma without any expectation.

Who understands that anger, sorrow, excitement, lust, are all base emotions that need to be controlled.

Who also know that God is within him.

So is it not Hinduism to imbibe all of the above? Isn’t a person who practices all the above classified as a Hindu, even though he may not know it?

Essentially a Hindu is a person who has all the inner traits of a Hindu.

Unfortunately in India today, people associate Hinduism with most things physical.

If there are three people standing in front of you, how can you look at them and decide what religion they practice? You can’t. If you place each of their hands in boiling water, they will all jerk it back, the same response. Physically you can’t make them react otherwise.

Emotionally how do they react to say their offspring dying? If all of them react the same, then are they of the same religion? Or they all have no clear understanding of the religion they follow. If you are a Hindu and understand that there was no son that was dead, since you are not the father, but a soul in search of salvation, you are sufficiently enlightened.

The Earth is a geoid, since it is flat at the top and protrudes from the middle. It’s not round.

But when a 3 year old asks you what the shape of the earth is, you say ‘round’. The reason being, at that level of intellect he may be only able to grasp so much. When he is older he can be explained that the earth is actually a geoid and he will understand it.

Similarly for religion. A ritualistic religion is the lowest form of religion. It is for the impoverished spiritual devotee, at the earliest stage. As a devotee understands spirituality more and more, he starts shedding the physical aspects of it. A really spiritual person is one who shakes of all the material trappings and rituals associated with a religion.

Maybe you know everything that I’ve explained in this conversation, but you still did not convey that, when I asked you a few abrupt questions? Why is that? Give it a thought and ask yourself ‘why is it that even though you know the truth you fail to realize it at the time you need it the most’. Karna was a great warrior, but he was cursed. He was cursed that he would lose all his knowledge at the time he needed it the most. Just like he was cursed, so is every Hindu in this country. They do not have the knowledge when they need it the most. It deserts them. That is why they have the same reaction as their opponent in a fight or a riot.

So what do you believe in? You state that ‘Guru is God’. Do you really believe that?

There was a Guru who recently asked all his disciples gathered at his ashram, ‘Do you believe that Guru is God?’ They all replied, ‘Yes we do’. He then closed the gates of the Ashram and informed them that from now on they would have to stay at the Ashram itself. The devotees were shocked. Some of them wanted to go home to see their children, others their grandchildren, some to pay off their utility bills. No one wanted to stay there. The Guru told the devotees, ‘You have all retired from your work, fulfilled all the responsibilities towards your spouse and children why then do you need to go home?’ But they still wanted to. If they really believed that Guru was god they would have stayed.

Maybe they did actually believe that Guru was God, but there were not really in the quest for God, and their reluctance to stay is testimony to that. Guru may be God, but they were not ready for God, as yet. ‘Guru is God but we want to go home and do fun things like paying the electric bill, doesn’t make sense.’

So if I were in the quest for God, my Guru will help me get there. I will be at his feet and nowhere else. If he tells me that the Ashram does not have the policy of people staying over, I will buy a house close to the Ashram and be close to God. This is .. if I’m actually in the quest for self-realization.

How do you resolve the problem of people not getting sufficient enlightenment? Why is it difficult for people to practice Hinduism in spite of so much literature and excellent people dispensing knowledge?

A person who has spent his entire life using his right hand cannot make a switch to using his left hand on a whim. Using the right hand is a reflex for him and it will take a huge huge effort to make your left hand the hand you use the most. But suppose someone cuts off you right hand, you are now forced to use the left hand. Your left hand will gain expertise and get stronger and more responsive. Similarly for religious education. When you’ve spend your entire life in material pursuits, believing that this is my mother, wife, kids, house, it’s impossible to just wake up one morning and implement a “I am a soul in search of salvation. I am neither father, brother nor son.’

Every Ashram needs to give people a kick start, a shock so that they can leave their historic thinking behind and adopt a new one. There is a logic in Vanaprasthanam, in people leaving their home and seeking a guru. They leave the issues of running a home behind and can concentrate solely on their spiritual education.

Most global schools that impart a good education, insists that the students stay in campus. For religious education too this should be the norm. A person who visits a place stays for a short time and goes back home is a tourist. If ever you go to an Ashram and feel the need to go back, you still have a lot to learn. The Ashram is your home, and until you feel that, you have a long way to go. You have a choice whether to be a religious tourist or a student of religion. Make the right choice.’

GP’ji, ’But if everyone starts joining the Ashram then the Ashrams will be full. I’m sure I can get a good religious education even from home. God is everywhere. ‘

Why are you concerned about every one else? Look for what’s right for you. Very few people will resist habit and join an ashram.

The youth should understand that they have a huge role in the religious education of their parents. When the children are young the parents start their education by taking them to the nursery school. The children wail and cry and resist change. And then they enjoy the change and embrace it. Every Hindu child who has parents who are older than 65 should forcibility enroll them in a resident ashram for their own good., the parents may cry and look for excuses like ‘I’ll go as soon as you get married, or get a kid, or after the next World Cup’ .. but their growth lies in the Ashram. Please deposit them there. Once they stay there for a few years maybe they will come back home and have the knowledge that will benefit the whole family. Else they may really get enlightened stay there and dissimilate knowledge to the masses and benefit society as a whole instead of just their family.’

GP’ji did not have much to say now. Hopefully he is now a more serious student of spirituality.

Saturday, March 24, 2007

Economy statistics

About 10% of the Indian workforce employed in the organised sector.
Which is around 40 million of the 470 million woking people.
35 million Indians pay income tax.
21 million employed by the Government, 14 million in the private sector.
Out of which 1 million in the IT sector.

In 1991 indian had 1 billion dollars in Forex reserves
In 2006 it was 140 billion dollars.

7 million people in manufacturing in India's organized sector. China has 100 million people in manufacturing.

Friday, March 23, 2007

The Book List

"I vow to review all books that I read this year."
-New Year Resolution 2001.

Well I'm finally working on my New Year's resolution :).

May 22nd 2007
The No Asshole Rule, Robert I Sutton, 186 pages, 2007

An interesting book about people at work, in lie who are rude and overbearing towards other folks.
Mostly deals with workplace bullies. Quick read, big print.
Would recommend .. for a light read. Nothing deep here. But relevant yes.

May 20th 2007
The Long Tail, Chris Anderson 226 pages, 2006

This book has been talked about for sometime now. Anderson's article in 'Wired', with the same name, was one of the most read articles on the net. He also has a blog by that name.
This book essentially talks about how retailers like amazon, itunes, rhapsody and also companies like netflix have changed the game. Customers now have a greater choice and do not have to see,buy,consume what everyone else does ... but things that cater to their tastes.
Sites like netflix have 90% of their 55000 titles rented at least once per quarter, which is really high. the 80:20 rule (80% of the demand is fulfilled by 20% of the product range) is now more like 60:20. The demand for obscure, lesser known songs, DVD's etc .. is high enough to ensure a high revenue even for such niches. This makes the tail longer.

(His last chapter mentions this product http://www.solid-scape.com/t612.html, that converts designs into actual 3-d models. It's really cool :) )



May 9th 2007
Wikinomics - Don Tapscott 2006

A book that discusses Web 2.0 technologies and their impact on the world. Not only the world of business but also how technology helps spread news quickly (London bombings), help people (Hurricane Katrina). Collaboration is the buzz word. Many many people collaborating over the net has resulted in huge benefits for companies .. specially in the areas of medicine, research, pharmaceuticals, even mining.
Discusses how companies like Boeing stay ahead by using technology to communicate with vendors and making them partners and stakeholders in the process and not subordinates.

An interesting book. Could have included a lot more case studies. (difficult to hold interest inbetween and then the book picks up)

March 22 2007
Naked Conversation-How blogs are changing the way businesses talk with customers.
Robert Scoble/Shel Israel
Published 2006, 232 pages. (credits pages not included)

An interesting book on how companies can use blogs to leverage their image and also help sell. It's more image that selling for companies. For small businesses it's more selling that image.
Microsoft and Sun are positively using blogs. Whereas Google and Apple(surprisingly) are not very open in this area. The book has a rambling, non heavy style.
This book mentiones quite a few companies and how the blogging stratosphere has helped or kicked them. How blogging has created problems and how blogging has helped them resolve issues.
This is good reading, a lot of useful information, good case studies. Would be extremely beneficial if CEO's actually read it, understood the concepts and leveraged employees to blog for the greater common good.

March 27th 2007
In spite of the Gods- The strange rise of modern India
Edward Luce
2007 356 pages

I wasn't sure of what to expect from this book. A lot of books on India are huge exaggerations of what the country is.
This book turned out to be extremely well rounded. The author has travelled the length and breadth of the country and interacted with academicians, civil servants, politicians, government employees, judges, entrepreneurs, policemen, social activists and more folks and presents an interesting picture of a very diverse India. The author has seriously covered a lot of ground here.
Did he actually figure india out?
Not really. India is an extremely complicated country and there's no way that it can be explained in a 356 page book. Readers should keep this is mind while reading the book. ( I was extremely curious to see how the foreign audience would react and so checked the few reviews on Amazon .. but did not get much. My feel(being an Indian) is that there is a lot in the book that is true, but that is not really representative of the India a normal person would encounter on a daily basis. )

Luce has done a good job getting information across, regarding all his encounters. He is bang on when discussing the political machinery, the way parliament works, corruption in political parties, the fact that none of the parties really offer the best option for the voter etc.
He is a little harsh on the RSS. The RSS is essentially an organization that has on its books everyday people who can fight with a wooden staff. Compared to the kind of training that cross border insurgents get, the RSS is an extremely extremely tame organization.

India's infrastructure, better law implementation, HIV/AIDS and the environment are definitely the issues that the country needs to address.

The only topic not covered is CRICKET. There's no way a writer can cover India without discussing cricket and the obsession for the sport.
All in all a nice narrative, makes interesting reading. And like I mentioned before .. India is too complex to be captured in a book :).
The book ends on a very nice note. His last tryst with the little kid is pretty amusing.

Good quotes:
Amar Singh about the press: "They eat my food and then speak ill of me."
Mahatma Gandhi : "The Hindu by nature is a coward and the Muslim a bully."

The Movie List

I've watched a lot of movies. But when people ask me for recommendations I struggle to remember all the good ones. This list is to avoid that struggle :) and make good recommendations of movies to see and movies to miss.
I'm more inclined towards Drama and Action, so not too much in terms of Humor and Cartoons.
Let me know if you need detail on any particular movie and why I've classified it so.
This list is 'work in progress', so keep visiting.

Movies seen recently
Fracture Good one (2007 Anthony Hopkins)
Bourne Ultimatum 2007 (must watch)
A Little Trip to Heaven 2005(good)
Peaceful Warrior (2006, Good movie. Inspired from real life)
Donnie Brasco (Johnny Depp, Al Pacino) Good gangster movie
Network (Watch this one. An old movie. I think won an Oscar for Screenplay. Very relevant today. It talks of how a TV network is manipulated for ratings.)
Rabbit Proof Fence (Documentary. Good)
Music And Lyrics (2006 .. bad movie .. Hugh Grant standard)
The Shooter (Mark Wahlberg 2007 Action Watchable)
Miss Potter (2006 .. very nice movie. Not too dramatic .. but well done)
Life as a house (Kevin Kline) Drama, Oscar nominated. Well made
The painted Veil 2006 (Edward Norton, Naomi Watts) Good movie
Venus (2006 Peter O'Toole, Academy Award nominated) Good Movie
Absolute Power (Clint Eastwood 1997. Well made)
Apocalypto (2006, unbelievable movie. Go and watch it)
Central Station(Spanish movie. Pretty good.)
The Secret Life of Words (2005 Fantastic movie. Ending not well done.)
Freedom Writers(2006 .. Excellent movie. Must watch)
Little Children (2006 .. average)
The Motorcycle Diaries (2005, Spanish, Must see)
Deja Vu (2006, action flick. Average.. but seeable)
The Queen (2006 Excellent performance by Helen Mirren. Must watch movie)
The Last King of Scotland (2006 good movie)
Notes on a Scandal (2006 Extremely well made.)
Children of Men (2006, Terrible movie)
The Pursuit of Happyness (2006 , good)
Once upon a time in America (1984 4 hrs long) Good gangster movie
Failure to Launch (2006 chick flick) Okay
Bobby (2006) Excellent movie. Ensemble cast. Well made. Golden Globe Award winner.
The Last kiss (missable)
Ferris Buellers day off (Comedy, old movie 1989.. but very well made)
300 (Good action movie. Based on 300 Spartans who battle the Greeks. Well made)
An Unfinished Life (reasonably good)

DOCUMENTARIES
Winged Migration
The Fog of War
Bowling for Columbine
Who killed the electric car?
The Inconvenient Truth
Why we fight
Enron: the smartest people in the room
March of the penguins

OUTSTANDING
Thank you for Smoking
On Golden Pond
Kinsey
Billy Elliot
Million Dollar Baby
Almost Famous
Hotel Rwanda
Batman Returns
Animals are beautiful people
The gods must be crazy 1 and 2
Lost in translation (not a populat choice)
Sideways
The Shower (Chinese)
Big Fish
Forrest Gump
Ray
The Green Mile
Crash
Blood Diamond
Malena
The Shawshank Redemption

VERY GOOD
The Inside Man
A Few Good Men
A Beautiful Life
The Insider
The Others
Babel
Walk the Line
Munich
Casino Royal
Bourne Identity
Bourne Supremacy
Crash
Run Lola Run
Trainspotting
Snatch
Syriana
Charlie and the Chocolate Factory
25th hour
The Constant Gardener
The Motorcycle Diaries
Traffic
The Prestige
American History X
Hustle & Flow
Eyes Wide Shut
Garden State
True Romance (very violent)
Star Wars (all parts)
Little Miss Sunshine
The 40 year old virgin
Casino Royale
Rainman
Fargo

GOOD
I, Robot
Assault on Precinct 13
The Last Samurai
Paycheck
Minority Report
Vanilla Sky
Jerry Maguire
The Firm
Born on the 4th of July
The Transporter
Babel
Good Night, And Good Luck.
Four Feathers
North Country
All the President's Men
The Aviator
Hollywoodland
Collateral
Mission Impossible 1, 2, 3
The Manchurian Candidate
Sahara
The Interpreter
Brokeback Mountain
Finding Neverland
Magnolia
The Talented Mr. Ripley
Two for the Money
World Trade Center
Guess Who
Freda
Any Given Sunday
Broken Flowers
Girl, Interrupted
Jarhead
Flags of Our Fathers
Memoirs of a Geisha
War of the Worlds
Collateral

PASSABLE
Shall We Dance
Boys Don't cry (dark movie)
The Holiday
The Sentinel
All the King's Men
The color of money
Cocktail
Tristan and Isolde
A Good year
Borat
Flightplan
The Breakup
Rumor has it
Hitch
Lord of War
Ladder 49
Match Point
The Assassination of Richard Nixon
21 grams
The Illusionist
Cinderella Man

TERRIBLE
Harsh Times
The Illusionist
Mr and Mrs Smith
Derailed
Firewall
Closer
Mary Antoinette
Must love dogs
Lucky Number Slevin
A History of Violence
The Terminal
Castaway
After the Sunset
The Notebook

Thursday, August 25, 2005

Utah Road Trip

Utah Roadtrip.
We did a loop starting from Zion and ending at the Grand Canyon, starting Nov 5th.
Winter is supposed to be off-season which means GREAT WEATHER, lesser people, cheaper hotels!!
The best part of the trip was the weather. Perfect for hiking, warm without the sun burning you!! The Weather was fantastic everywhere except for Bryce.
People? Bryce, Arches .. had maybe 20-30 people .. Canyon lands in single digits. We had most of the parks all to ourselves.
Off season hotel rates usually mean half the price.


Day 0
Zion .. 750 miles .. 12 hours.
We started at 9:00 pm ..
at 2:00 am .. got a traffic ticket at 101 mph !!
Great start !!

Day 1 Zion

We reached Zion .. at about 9 am ... got to the campground ..
Weather was in the 50's. We could get a campsite easily .. since winter is the off season (campsite booking online is stopped after Oct 31st. In winter it's on a first come basis. Since few people opt for it, you stand a good chance of getting one.)
Slept for a couple of hours before we got moving again.
Zion was beautiful .. the fall colors are unbelievable .. lot of yellows .. a little orange.
The road .. has a reddish hue .. the first NP where I saw a road of a different color ..
Pic: Chequered Rock
Hikes we did:
Weeping Rock(0.5 mi).
Riverside walk(2 mi) gets you to the Zion narrows .. you can't walk in the narrows in winter .. since it's filled with water and there are chances of flash floods when it rains.
The Emerald Pool hike is about 2-3 miles depending on whether you decide to cover the Upper, middle, lower pools. It ends in a waterfall ..





Day 2 Bryce
It was raining when we left Zion .. and the park looked even better .. washed !!
Bryce was next, it’s a couple of hours away.
The rain followed us all the way to Bryce.
We still hiked the Queens Gardens and the Navajo pass hikes.
The hoodoos were beautiful. Canyons are the effect of erosion. Hoodoos are tall thin spires of rock that protrude from the bottom of arid basins and badlands. They are composed of soft sedimentary rock, and are topped by a piece of harder, less easily-eroded stone that protects the column from the elements. More at : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoodoo_(geology)
The rain ensured that we couldn't camp. We stayed at the Red Ruby Inn .. right at the entrance. 57$ a night. Rates double in summer.
Pic: Bryce Amphitheatre











Day 3 Bryce/Arches
Thought we'd do a lot of hiking on Day3 .. but . it had rained all night .. (real good Indian rain ) .. and the morning brought some snow as well.
It was a blizzard and we got out of there as fast as we could .. we were in Arches in another 6 hours (282 miles). (You can drive along 12 and 24 which is the scenic route .. but uncertain weather .. forced us to take the rather safe 89 , 70)
Arches was nice and sunny.
Delicate arch was the first hike .. an uphill hike .. .. 3 mile roundtrip .. really impressive!!
Also the Windows .. great views at sunset !!
Pic: Broken Arch

Day 4 Arches/Canyonlands
Morning we got onto the Devils Garden primitive loop trail.
Most of the trail is over rock. Carefully placed cairns ( a cairn is small stones placed one atop the other) .. litter the way and provide you direction. We did get lost once. Overall 7.2 miles roundtrip ..
You get to see a few arches along the way .. including the biggest of me all .. the Landscape arch !!
This hike they say is a little difficult, gets slippery in the rain, but is well worth the walk. Unlike most trails that get monotonous .. this managed to keep interest ..since the terrain kept varying.
A couple of other minor hikes ..
Pic: skyline arch


Canyon lands - Island in the sky.
Canyonlands has 2 entrances.
'Island in the sky' is about 40 minutes from Arches.
We got in there at about 4:00 pm, so we had an hour and a half before we ran out of daylight.
It was raining .. at short intervals .. and we literally had to drive through clouds .. and that when we knew where the name came from !!
The views were unbelievable.
At the Green River overlook, it opens to a vast vast .. huge immense .. open space .. it's about a 1000 feet drop .. and you can see the Green river .. etching through the landscape .. its jagged edges .. snaking/cutting through the land.

Day 5
Canyon lands - Needles district
It's 2 hours from Arches.
Chesler Park trail was about 8 miles. There is the loop that is 11 miles.
Most of the first 8 miles is over rock. Extremely varied terrain, interspersed with elevations and drops.
The hike is not at all intense. The views on the way are a lot better than those for the other trails here. (Our original planned hike was the Confluence overlook, 11 miles. But that is pretty much over flat terrain.)
Drove to Mesa Verde, Colorado (3 hrs, 144 miles). The campgrounds were closed !!
Motels in Cortez (nearest town), were in the 45-55$ range. Pic: needles


Island in the Sky
To reach the Island, take US Highway 191 to Utah Highway 313 (10 mi/16 km north of Moab, or 22 mi/35 km south of I-70) and then drive southwest 22 mi/35 km. Driving time to the visitor center from Moab is roughly 40 minutes. Pic: island in the sky

Needles
On US Highway 191, drive 40 miles (60 km) south of Moab or 14 miles (22 km) north of Monticello, then take Utah Highway 211 roughly 35 miles (56 km) west. Highway 211 ends in the Needles, and is the only paved road leading in and out of the district.


Day 6 Mesa Verde Spanish for "green table",
Known for its cliff houses. From approximately A.D. 600 through A.D. 1300 people lived here.
Has over 600 cliff houses.
The only tour open in winter, is that of the Spruce house.
You can get good views of all the other houses as you drive along the park. So you do not really miss anything going off season.
At an elevation, so gets some snow and is a lot colder than Cortez.
Drove to Glen Canyon, Page. 245 miles, 6 hours.

Day 7 Glen Canyon
Glen Canyon was dammed and flooded with water to form Lake Powell. Environmentalists do not like it, but the canyon looks great with all that water in it. There is a short drive along the lake across the dam. The visitor center also conducts 'Dam tours'. Closest city, Page.
Horseshoe Bend is phenomenal. A short ¾ mile hike takes you there.
It's difficult to get a full picture hence pointing you to some already published pictures.
The second one here was taken using a fisheye lens
http://www.webshots.com/g/poster/54/35554_poster.html
http://www.travelsw.com/southwest-trips/southwest-trips-arizona/horseshoe.htm

Day 8 Grand Canyon
Our original plan was to hike the canyon. But we got sick and couldn't do it. Anyways .. we still did go there.
It was raining all night in Page. When we drove in the morning towards the GC (140 miles, 2.5 hrs), the weather looked good. A slightly overcast day though. We got in though the East entrance. It had snowed everywhere. The trees on the side were white. Nothing on the way here could have given us any inkling on expecting snow !!
We couldn't see inside the canyon .. since the fog was really thick.
(The backcountry pass for camping in the canyon needs to be booked much in advance. No refunds if cancelled, but you can book for a future date. Good info at http://www.nps.gov/grca/backcountry/ )
As we got out through the south entrance, 25 miles from the East one, the sun was shining bright .. and it looked like summer.
It was a damn good day to hike .. but looks like we'll have to do it some other time.

Monday, August 22, 2005

Hiking Half Dome, Yosemite.

Started for Yosemite National Park, Friday evening .. 4th of July (2005) long weekend.

Had a one point program.. To hike Half Dome !!
Sneha drove all the way .. and as I slept she drove us halfway into Sonora. Wrong place to be in !!
I had to get back into wakeup mode .. and get us back to 120East and Yosemite.
(It's about 187 miles straight in .. and should take between 3.5-4 hrs of relaxed driving from San Jose.)
We checked three campgrounds just outside Yosemite .. and they were all full. We reached the Yosemite West entrance, Big Oak Flat at 11:00 pm.
We had no hope of getting a campground inside ..since all of them get filled more than a few months in advance. We were all set to park in the Happy Isles Trailhead Parking, sleep in the car and hit the trail early morning.
Just for kicks, we decided to check whether there were any campgrounds that were slightly populated ..and we did find a couple of kind folks who were willing to accommodate us. We split the fees.. 10$ our share !!
The tent that we have is pretty nice. Gets up in less than 4 minutes. We woke up at 5:00 am .. Heated some pre-cooked food. Had a quick breakfast. De-tented and headed for the trailhead.

The parking lot at Happy Isles is where the action begins. It's a good half mile to the trailhead .. where directions, maps etc are displayed.
Half Dome is approximately a 17 mile round trip. Total elevation gained is 4800 feet.
Usually takes 10-12 hrs to cover.
Enroute is the Vernal falls.
The Mist Trail takes you to Vernal falls(317 ft high). It's about 3 miles away and the trail is well cut. There is some climbing involved since the increase in elevation is pretty steep. It takes a staircase of 600 granite steps to get to the top. Also we got soaked as we walked past along this trail. The mist from the falls really gets you for more than half a mile and you are seriously wet at the end of it. It's nice on a summer day and you don't really mind it.
At Vernal falls there is a railing that pretty much takes you to where the water starts falling. This rainy season, water levels in Yosemite were more than 175% above average. So the volume of water that was falling and the speed at which it travelled made it quite a sight.

Tips:
Don't apply any sunscreen till you cross the Mist trail .. it pretty much gets washed out !!
Can fill water at Vernal falls bridge drinking station, so you can replenish fluids.
Makes sense to remove your shirt during the mist portion of the trail, since you're anyway going to get wet.

beyond the Vernal falls..
The trail increases in elevation slowly. And you're walking mostly on mud and not stone (unlike the path till Vernal ) !!
As you reach the bottom of Half Dome (I guess they call it Quarter Dome), the climb is strictly over rock. The path is cut in at places and there are a lot for switchbacks that make getting to the top longer. We left our backpack at the bottom here. Just carried the wallets and car key. Very few people did this(maybe they were worried about the backpack getting stolen), but on retrospect this was a smart thing to do. It's tough carrying a heavy bag.

At the end of this stretch begins Half Dome's cable climb.
It takes about 45 mins to get from here to the steel cables at Half Dome.
The cables usually go up on the Memorial weekend (May end). But this year .. It pretty much got up there in the first two weeks of June.
The cables look really intimidating. The reason being that the face is sheer rock, at say a 60 degree angle. You're climbing that rock using the steel cables for support. The cable are supported by poles every 10 feet, and there is a wooden slat between the poles that support you from falling.
Since I'm not a great lover of heights it really did not look like fun. But since everyone seemed to be able to do it, it made the decision to climb easier.
(Think of the cables as a small ropeway bridge .. where you can hold onto both sides. The cables are about half an inch thick and look very sturdy.)
At the base, you find tonnes of gloves. You can easily find one your size. You need these for a grip on the cable. People also climbed without these .. so you should be okay.
(You can get gloves from Home Depot for 2-3$. Heavy duty worker leather gloves)
There was some traffic going up and down. So we took about 20 minutes to get to the top. It's a 900 foot climb. Coming down is easy since gravity helps you but if you're scared of heights and there's a traffic jam it's painful to be stuck up there and look down . It's like being stuck in a roller coaster. But unlike what people say, it's pretty easy to get up and down the cables.
We were on top of Half Dome at 12:45, so it took us appx 7 hours to get there. The trip back is about 5 hrs.
Since we started early we did not see too much sun on the way up. There is shade for most of the way . You are totally exposed once you reach the base of Half Dome(Quarter Dome).
On the way back, the sun really got us. I had a bad headache and was literally dragging myself down. 7 more miles did not sound fun when you're not 100% !!
A Tylenol and many stops along the way helped. Sneha did it without any issues. (had a major leg pain now that she's back home.)

The hike is strenous ... but very doable. I've seen a lot of blogs that make it sound very very tough. Just make sure you carry enough supplies to give you teh energy to stay in the game. We were hiking after a gap of 6 months, and did not really feel the strain. The trail gets crowded. So try and get in early. This also helps you avoid the sun. (half dome pic below)

Food and Water
Water consumed: Around 3 liters per head.
Food : Minimal. We took a lot of food and pretty much brought back everything.
I would recommend 4 litres water just to be safe and minimal food.(Energy Bars, nuts, some salted stuff (chips, snacks)are good enough)
A good site for pics of Half Dome, cables etc:
http://www.thecaliforniahikingpage.com/yosemite/halfdome/halfdome.html

Accomodation:
A. Best places to tent inside Yosemite are:
Upper Pines: Open all year.
Lower Pines: Open from March to October.
North Pines: Open from April to September
.
All three sites are close to Happy Isles. Just a 5 minute drive away.
B. If you don't want to tent, options in the vicinity of Happy Isles:
Houskeeping Camp.
Very basic accommodation at Housekeeping Camp
Housekeeping Camp is about like 75$ for 4 people, and about 80 for 5 people (something close to that)
Also try Curry Village. Tents for 2 or more people.
http://www.yosemitepark.com/bookOnline.cfm?SectionID=27&PageID=60
C. Hostel:
http://www.yosemitebug.com/lodging.html
Very highly rated at: http://www.hostelz.com/display.php/2413+HI+-+Midpines,+The+Yosemite+Bug+Hostel
http://www.stayatyosemite.com/cabhos/lodging.htm#hostel
D. Camping inside Yosemite: http://www.yosemite.national-park.com/camping.htm
Camping outside Yosemite: The best websites for information: http://jrabold.net/yosemite/campn.shtml
http://www.yosemitepinesrv.com/

Wednesday, September 22, 2004

Alaska Trip Report- Aug 2004

This is pretty much a quick go-through of our(me and Sneha's) Alaska trip. When I planned the trip I did not know anyone who had been to Alaska before. It was difficult to get good information. I've listed here, all the information that I had been looking for, but had trouble finding. Lists places to visit, things to do there, accommodation reviews. (I had to post some of the accommodation reviews .. so the content is designed as per the hostelz.com review guidelines.) In case you need details on anything, pls let me know : vivache@gmail.com.


We'd been to South West Alaska for two weeks (starting mid-Aug 2004). The tourist season is for three months in summer, June, July, August. The rest of the year is too cold or too dark(since the sun is out just for just a few hours.) Middle of Aug .. is towards the end of the tourism season .. so avoided the crowds. Most towns have 2000-3000 inhabitants .. and a small town over run with 20000 tourists .. can be a nightmare. Early June or late Aug is a very good time. Summer temperatures hover between 54-64 F. This was the hottest summer in Alaska .. and temperatures in a lot of places hit the 90's. The highest we encountered was 76 in Juneau.(usually about a million acres of forests burn every year .. this year the number was 5 million). A shirt or t-shirt is good for most places. You can add a sweater for evenings .. and a jacket when on a cruise. Ideally dress in layers. It rains only in Ketchikan. We encountered light showers at different places though.
Most people who work at the cruises, do tours etc .. are all from the lower 48 states. Since tourism is really seasonal, not many locals do these jobs. The best way to get there .. is look for a summer job !! (seriously )
We met a lot of people who had rented RV's. It costs upwards of 175$ .. but works well if you have 4 or more people.

Alaska Quick Facts: Alaska is the largest state in the US, about 2.3 times the size of Texas and about one-fifth the size of the Lower 48 states. Most of it is inaccessible. And other parts only accessible by boat or air. This really makes it expensive.
Wasn't that quick : )

12th-13th Aug We got into Anchorage at 10:30 in the night. The flight breaks at Seattle from San Jose, total flying time is about 4.5 hours. Rented a car at the airport .. bought some groceries and water .. and drove to Denali (Hway 3). The road is very good .. and you can drive at 70-80 mph. We slept en route .. in the car ... and reached the Park .. at about 7:45 am. We nearly crashed into a moose and later a porcupine .. while driving. Yes .. Lots of wildlife in Alaska.
Denali National Park(http://www.nps.gov/dena/) is about 240 miles from Anchorage. Denali is Athabascan for the Great One.. refers to Mount Mc Kinley .. the tallest peak in North America at 20320 feet, (second to Everest).
Park entrance fee: 5$ per person, 10$ per family. Denali .. allows people to drive in .. only for the first 15 miles. The road beyond that is gravel .. and you can either walk .. or get into the Bus. Buses run to the end of the Park(Kantishna) which has a BackCountry Lodge. If you don't plan to stay there .. your last point will be Wonder Lake which is Mile 85. Need to book in advance for the buses, else tickets are unavailable. Can do it online at : http://www.reservedenali.com/. Ticket costs range from 15-30$ depending on where you would like to stop. (There is a bus tour for 77$ .. but the drivers give you .. pretty much the same info .. as the bus ride.. and the bus ride is also flexible .. since you can get down .. at will). The bus is a pretty neat concept .. since you can concentrate on looking for wildlife. The bus drivers are very knowledgeable ..and fill you in with info about the Park. The bus stops at different places(Toklat River, Polychrome, Eielson Centre, Wonder Lake) along the 85 mile road and also stops any place you would like to get down .. or stops to pick up hikers.
We met folks who had hiked in Denali for 5 days !! You need a backcountry pass(think it's free) .. and can pitch your tent anywhere .. as long as it is not visible from the road. You get Bear Canisters at the Visitor Centre.
On a good day from Wonder Lake, you can have a clear view of Mt McKinley. We did !!
Wildlife that you can see along the way: bear(brown, black), Willow Ptarmigan(state bird), bald eagle, moose, caribou, dall sheep. (if lucky wolves, we didn't see any).

The park is very green Tundra. Considering that its pretty much under ice for 7-8 months, there is substantial greenery out there. We saw about 20 bears on day 2, one even walked across the front of the bus !! Make sure you take your binoculars along .. you can't do without them !! We were in Denali for 2 days . Ideally do the Wonder Lake ride on day 1 (11 hr roundtrip.. yeah . they really drive slow .. and stop for every animal !!) , so you have an idea .. of what all the park has to offer .. and can check those areas on Day 2.

Camping in Denali is the best option. Acco is pretty expensive .. in almost all the places in Alaska .. blame it on a short tourism season. We stayed at hostels all along ..and they were a pretty affordable, fun way of doing things !! Mountain Morning hostel(www.hostelalaska.com) is about 13 miles south of Denali. Charge 25$ per bunk .. also have cabins at 65$. They charge a dollar for the bedding. 50 cents for towels. Shared kitchen in the main building, 24 hr internet. The kitchen is fully equipped .. with all utensils, has 2 cooking ranges .. so ample room for everyone. Very clean. Hostel main building is closed from 9-4. The showers and bathrooms were very clean. You get to meet a lot of fellow travelers, and get information on places to see and miss !! This hostel was perfect!! A creek flows right next door. (We got locked out of the car .. and Andrew from the hostel used a coat hanger .. to get it open !! )

15th-16th Aug About 90 miles South of Denali .. is an area .. where you can get a good view of Mt Mc Kinley and Talkeetna river (called South Denali View .. or something like that). Chulitna, Susitna and Talkeetna are the rivers in the area. You can see a couple of them on the drive along the highway. To hit Talkeetna you need to detour about 14 miles. The town .. is really small and nice. Drive straight and turn left as the road ends. The trail to the river gets you there in 5 minutes. Flights to Mt McKinley .. start from here . You fly there in small bush planes. Costs about 175$ starting. We were there on a cloudy day ..and had to pass. (At 175$ .. I was glad it was cloudy .. :) )
Drive to Homer: AK3 .. becomes AK1 at Anchorage. Homer is about 5 hrs from Anchorage.. along 1 .. which is also called the Sterling Highway. As soon as you cross Anchorage, you see the Turnagain Arm .. great view of the sea from here. A few miles down the road .. take a left to the Portage glacier.. about 7 miles down the road. Need to take a ferry to see this .. costs about 25$.(The road also hits Whittier .. take the tunnel. Cruises go from Whittier to Valdez. Glaciers to be seen: Prince William Sound, Columbia Glacier, the world's fastest moving Glacier. Valdez is the place of the Exxon oil spill of 1989.) If you want to see a Glacier for free.. check the Byron Glacier .. it's on the right as you drive towards Portage. The trail is about a mile .. pretty rocky.. but a nice walk. You can walk on this Glacier !! .. and it's a very nice hike. http://www.planetboyd.com/T2K2Web/ByronGlacier.htm.
(Brief on Glaciers: Glaciers that spill into the sea are TideWater Glaciers, glaciers that become rivers are Valley Glaciers.)

The drive along the Sterling Highway is spectacular .. like Highway 1 .. but a lot more greener. We took about 9 hrs to get to Homer .. since we HAD to stop at all the places. The drive along the Russian River has STOP written everywhere. The river is green .. and meanders along the road. People come here to fish for sockeye and Red/silver Salmon. http://www.flyanglersonline.com/features/greatrivers/kenai/

Useful info: Take a boat into Kachemak Bay(60$ per head return trip). The hike to Grengwich Glacier(land locked Valley glacier) is really a good day hike. The scenery is very tropical. You can also camp here close to the beach!! We did about 10-12 miles of non-stressful hiking. To get across the Grengwich river .. there is a self-pulling cable car .. pretty tough and also awesome !! The halibut Derby was on while we were there.. saw 150 pounders.
Good Restaurant. Cafe Cups .. fed us some exceptional halibut .. the decor too is neat, lot of half broken plates, cups, glasses sticking through the walls.

As you get into Homer .. on Sterling Highway .. take a left on Kachemak Drive(just before you hit the spit) to get to the hostel, Seaside Farm !! Seaside Farm is very 60's .. minus the drugs:). The host Maasi is a very nice lady, quite knowledgeable about the surroundings. Lots of friendly folks around... of different ages .. from the 30's to the 50's-60's. The cabin we stayed in (65$ a night) .. had a loft and a twin bed. Very clean and comfortable. The kitchen .. was inside the cabin .. and had a propane stove. (cooks faster than electric ones). There was no running water .. but there was a 2 gallon(8 liter) plastic container inside .. so that took care of that. (But washing vessels in non-running water is a pain !! Also cooking vessels could have been better. Stainless steel ones are the best for hostels. The non-stick ones are usually scraped bad .. and unfit for use.) We had to use the bathroom in the main hostel ..and that wasn't really fun. Bathrooms need re-doing .. though they are usable. The farm is a real farm .. with horses .. cocks, hen etc. Also a patch where you can pick up strawberry. http://www.xyz.net/~seaside/ The Homer spit .. is about 5 mins by car. Overall .. a pretty decent place .. and you get to live on an actual farm. Would recommend.

17th Aug Drove to Seward. Was raining in the morning for an hour. Weather still good .. mid 60's. About 170 miles .. get onto 9 south from 1. Good roads .. great drive. The Resurrection Bay, Glacier cruise .. is a 6 hour thing .. that costs about 110$ including lunch which was excellent. (you get a 10$ coupon from the Information Centre , just as you hit town.Kenai Fjords, Renowned, Major .. are the major tour operators. ) Aialik Glacier is about 1.2 miles wide .. you see a lot of active calving(Calving: Bits of the Glacier .. breaking and falling into the sea) .. at regular intervals. The ride is nice.. smooth seas. Wildlife enroute .. puffins, kittiwakes, pigeon guillemots, bald eagles, orcas(killer whales, actually the largest dolphin . We saw a school of about 20 of them , also a couple of humpback, stellar sea lions(many, many ). Seward .. is a nice little town.
We had a great dinner at the Harbor Dinner Club. Surprisingly, sea food is expensive in Alaska. Expect to pay 20$ per head.

The Salmon derby was underway . Saw some huge salmon and also cod. Alaska Sea Life Centre .. is a smaller version of the Monterey Bay Aquarium. It's nice .. but not worth the 14$ entrance fee. You can't spend more than 2 hrs here. We got free tickets from a friendly cruise agent .. so we were fine. Before you hit town take a right for Exit Glacier. A 9 mile drive takes you to the Park Entrance.(Kenai : http://www.nps.gov/kefj/).

Exit Glacier .. is a 15 minute walk .. and wheelchair accessible. The hike at Harding's ice field is a damn good day hike. Reasonably strenuous .. Good views all over. Harding Ice Field feeds about thirty active glaciers. It is one of four remaining ice fields in the United States. It is about 30 miles wide and 50 miles long and 300 square miles. The hike is about 7.8 miles .. 3000 feet. . Took us about 5 hrs round trip. It takes between 4 to 7 hrs depending on speed, fitness. We met a couple of Russians .. who did the climb with just a water bottle .. and no food. We were admiring them for their fitness and stamina .. until they told us .. that they had been stupid to do the hike without food .. and were very hungry. They ate all our biscuits !! Yep .. take a good lunch !! We saw a bear and 2 cubs ambling along. And another one 10 feet ahead of us on the trail. Also mountain sheep.

We stayed at the Snow River Hostel. It's about 16 miles ... North of Seward. We had a car .. so the commute was no problem. Else I guess .. you'll have to hitchhike. The view from the hostel is great .. it overlooks a hill. Also .. a small creek flows nearby. We lived in the cabin. At 40$ a night .. it was a steal. Very clean .. spacious ... with tea, coffee, chocolate !! Books to read as well !! The kitchen and the bathrooms are at the main hostel. (there is an outdoor commode next to the cabin) The bathroom .. was exceptionally clean .. The kitchen is fully equipped .. very clean .. has all utensils, basics. (Also has a massive antique heater.. that actually works). The dining area holds a large table .. that can seat 8. The bunks are upstairs .. of the main hostel. Bunks are at 15$ a night. The hostel is run by John Lennon :) and Edna. Edna .. is a school teacher at the local school for special children. She gave us some good information about things to see. No Website. Address: 22634 Seward Highway Telephone: +1 (907) 440-1907

We drove back to Anchorage on 19th Aug, to take the flight to Gustavus. To kill time, we stopped at the Anchorage Wildlife Refuge, 11 miles South of Anchorage. They house animals .. that have been injured .. and cannot make it in the wild. The 5$ entrance fee gets you Musk ox(they have skulls that are 3 inches thick !!), bison, deer, eagles, owl,a baby lynx, bears, boars and more. We flew into Gustavus to check the Glacier Bay(GB) National Park. Flight from Anc to Juneau(30 mins) and another 15 minute flight to Gustavus. Was raining when we got in.. but the skies cleared the next day.

20th/21st Aug The GB Cruise is expensive .. about 170$. You get to see 3-4 glaciers. The biggest we saw was the Johns Hopkins Glacier. You can really feel the chill here .. with so many Glaciers around.
We met a lot of folks who had been kayaking for 4-8 days !! We did kayak .. in the ocean .. but for half a day. It was fun. Kayakers .. get to see porpoise, seals .. even whales .. a few feet away from them. Since we were beginners, we were more than happy to see the shore !! The water is very calm .. and kayaking is fun. But for first timers .. it takes a little time to get into the groove. The kayaking company charged us 45$ for a double kayak ..and provided all equipment(boots, raingear.. free of cost.) It really gets hot with all the gear .. so wear light clothes. http://www.glacierbayseakayaks.com/kayaking.html.

We stayed at a delightful guesthouse run by Aimee.. http://www.islandnet.com/aimee/. Was earlier a Smoked Salmon factory !! Very well done rooms. We stayed in the studio. 80$ a night. The two bedroom upstairs is about 110$ .. and is even better. Great furniture .. books.. very well laid out. SmokeHouse Gallery, dealing with local artists, is on the Ground Floor. Also provides free bicycles(Huffy's). We rode around town. (The other acco alternative here is the GB Lodge ... which is about 200$. There are other lodges and Guest Houses as well.)

Gustavus is a very small town.. 300 people. Just became a city .. which means you now have to pay 2% tax. Grocery store nearby. TLC is the local taxi.. charges 5.25$ from airport .. 10.25 to Bartlett Cove .. from where the cruise starts.
Buds Rent-a-car is about 66$. Worthwhile if more than 2 people.
We also .. took a Sledge ride.. pulled by McKinsey River huskies !!

Gustavus .. is a phenomenal place. thought it's expensive to get in here .. add the cruise cost etc.. this was the best place we liked in terms of Actual Alaskan look'n feel. Small town .. great views.. nice folks. (yeah .. also has a 9 hole golf course !!)

22nd Aug Plane back to Juneau. This is a very touristy town .. mostly Cruise Ship country. Not very Alaskan. We rented a car .. but Mendenhall Glacier .. is the only thing worth seeing here. There are many buses that go there. Eagle beach is another good spot. You need a boat to get to Tracy Terror.. which is a cheaper alternative to GBay .. and some folks think it's even better. We didn't check it out .. so can't confirm that !!

http://www.juneauhostel.org/ Juneau International Hostel. On Harris and 6th Street. Pretty much close to downtown .. maybe 15 minutes walk. At 10$ .. this is fantastic .. very clean, great bathrooms, damn friendly staff. I had to be their Manager one night .. and got a refund for my night's stay (plus wielded a lot of power :) over hostelites )!! Marta.. the host .. was pretty well traveled in India .. and we talked a bit about that. No shoes inside. Curfew 12:00 pm. But if there's someone around .. they let you in. Free Internet access. Have to do a chore .. but really minor stuff. Great place .. at a really cheap price !! Strongly recommended.

Other useful info: Salmon at the Thane Ore House .. all you can eat .. is about 23$.. Twisted Fish is another popular place .. downtown.
24th Aug We took the cruise to Ketchikan aboard the MS Matanuska. Cabin for two is about 280$. Else deduct 80$ .. and you can pitch a tent on the solarium .. that's the roof of the ship. You need duct tape to hold the tent. It's really fun up there. The cruise takes about 19 hours. A ranger on board has informative sessions at regular intervals. Food on board is very reasonably priced. Stops in-between at Petersburg(little Norway), Wrangell (you can check the petroglyphs here .. a 10 minute walk from the ferry .. take a left on the road .. walk up till you see a sign on the left .. towards the beach.)
25-26th Aug Ketchikan again .. is like Juneau... aimed at the cruise ship clientele. We went on a day hike up Deer Mountain. The Blue Bus takes you all the way to Fair St. Take a right and walk for half a mile .. and you hit the trailhead. The climb is 6 miles roundtrip .. 3000 ft. Quite simple .. 4 hr hike. Great views of the city .. and the other side of the bay. Also can see the Blue Lake. (The other hike .. which we didn't go for is the Ward Lake.)

Also check out the Saxman Totem Park. The largest totem pole park !! Has a Gift Shop. Everything is expensive. Even 10X8" prints start at 30-40$. Crazy Wolf in the downtown .. is a good place to shop for prints. Also check the Totem Heritage Centre. We saw master craftsman Israel Shotridge working on a 25" totem. It takes about 5 months to complete a totem of that size. Ketchikan is littered with totems .. and that makes the town interesting. The bus service is damn good. The walk in downtown .. and also on Creek Street is nice.

We stayed at EagleView Hostel, on 5th and Jefferson. The road is very steep .. and with a heavy backpack .. is a tough climb. Great view from the living room. Pvt room $60, bunks $25. Very nice place. (We missed the Misty Fjords Monument.)

27th Aug Home
.. The End !! (wake up .. it's over !! :) )

Listing of all hostels: http://www.hostelz.com/cities.php/__Alaska_Hostels Alaska Marine Ferry: http://www.dot.state.ak.us/amhs/ Check Alaska coupons: http://www.blogger.com/www.toursaver.com 99$. Gives you discounts on cruises, hotels, activities etc. We did not use this.

In short: This is pristine untouched country. Amazing wildlife .. and everything is just a few feet off. The natural scenery really blows you away .. . The whole trip cost us about 4400$ (two people). The last leg at Juneau and Ketchikan is eminently missable .. unless you really like collecting trinklets:). Leave that and the cost somes down to say 3000-3300$.